Ahead of the 10th January Jewellery, Watches and Silver Sale, we take a look at the history of animal-themed jewellery, of which there are some wonderful examples coming up in the sale.
Animal motifs have adorned jewellery since ancient times, with certain animals believed to bring good fortune or to ward off evil spirits. For example, in Ancient Egypt scarab beetles were favoured as it was believed that they symbolised protection in life and a favourable rebirth in the afterlife. The Ancient Greeks and Romans, however, preferred animal emblems that denoted strength and power, such as lions, eagles and horses on their jewellery, which would become a talisman that invoked the animals perceived qualities. A particularly good example is an intricate earring in the form of a lion, created in the 4th to 3rd century BCE, now held in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
Over the centuries, animal jewellery came in and out of fashion. During the Renaissance it rose in popularity, elevated into elaborate creations; for example, a baroque pearl could be used to form the main body of the animal, with the rest of the shape created using gold or silver work with enamel and gemstones forming the details. The British Museum hold an intricate Spanish late 17th century pendant in the form of a lamb sitting on a book, it’s body given shape by a large baroque pearl.
The Victorian era perhaps saw the peak in the popularity of animal jewellery, influenced by Queen Victoria’s love of animals and nature; insect brooches and butterfly themed pieces were prolific. As travel became easier and the British Empire expanded, exotic creatures became popular motifs, too. Notably, snakes were a common theme, particularly after Prince Albert gave a snake ring to Queen Victoria, the creature symbolising eternal love. During the Victorian era, the Pre-Raphaelites were pivotal in exploring new techniques, materials, and combinations of materials in their desire to capture the beauty of nature and recreate the essence of a creature. Rather than just recreating the overall shape of an animal or insect, they sought to capture elusive details such as the dragonfly’s shimmery lacy wings and velvet-like body.
Throughout the 20th century and to the present day, people choose animal jewellery to reflect their fondness for or characteristics of their chosen animal emblem. Modernist makers such as Georg Jensen embraced the trend in their nature-inspired pieces throughout the early part of the century, which was taken to new heights by Cartier in the middle of the century with the introduction of their iconic Panthère range. The first 3-D panther jewel was created in 1948 for Wallis Simpson and was a symbol of power and elegance. Later, Cartier introduced other big cats into their menagerie, all under the Panthère brand. Heading into the second half of the 20th century, charm bracelets are often popular pieces to embellish with favoured animals.
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