Archive of Tambour Embroiderer to Royalty Up for Auction

A fascinating archive giving an insight into the laborious work of a tambour (embellishments) embroiderer at the atelier of Norman Hartnell, dressmaker to royalty and aristocracy, is coming up for sale on 13^th February in Tennants Auctioneers’ Fashion, Costume and Textiles Sale. The archive relates to Mollie Welch of Sydenham, Kent, who was a much-valued member of Hartnell’s team in the 1930s, 1950s and 1960s, hand-stitching beads onto the elaborate creations made for the likes of Queen Elizabeth II, Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, Princess Margaret, and the Duchess of Gloucester.

In addition to a vast quantity of mid-20^th century sequins and beads, the archive includes Mollie’s handwritten work room notebooks which catalogue projects from the very first day she spent at the atelier in January 1937 (estimate: £400-600 all figures exclude buyer’s premium). Each book details the date, customer model, and time spent on a garment, and lists numerous illustrious clients and important projects. Amongst those listed are embellishments for Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother’s bodice for the Coronation of George VI, outfits for King George VI and Queen Elizabeth’s state visit to France in 1938-9, and after the war Coronation dresses for Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Margaret. Amongst personal and professional correspondence in the archive are photographs, letters between Hartnell and Mollie, including a touching letter when she left his studio to express his gratitude, and a wartime letter from a colleague updating her on the lives of fellow sewing room girls.

Sir Norman Hartnell (1901–1979) was a leading British fashion designer best remembered for his role as the official dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II. He gained international acclaim for his opulent and innovative designs, which included creating the Queen's 1947 wedding dress and her iconic 1953 coronation gown. His career spanned decades, and he was also known for his versatility, designing for a wide range of clients. Indeed, one of his longstanding clients, Dame Barbara Cartland, said that Hartnell “was the designer who made every woman look like a fairy queen”.

The rest of the sale offers a wide array of vintage and antique costume and textiles, from two private collections of colourful world textiles from as far afield as Egypt, Pakistan and Uzbekistan that were used for teaching, to 20^th century ladies daywear by Cryséde. Founded in Newlyn in 1920 and influenced by the Modernist art movement, Cryséde produced fun, brightly coloured clothes much in demand by women looking for cheer after the First World War. Also on offer is part of a large Collection of Costume and Accessories from London, amassed over a lifetime of collecting and dealing by a textiles enthusiast; highlights of the varied collection include a circa 1930s Cream Silk Wedding Outfit and a similar Cream Silk Wedding Coat (estimate: £200-300), and Circa 1820 Pink Silk Striped Gentleman’s Banyan (estimate: £300-500). A further private collection of hatpins is also on offer, with examples by Charles Horner.

View Sale