2025 was an outstanding year for watches, with the market going from strength to strength and many new watch buyers starting to collect classic timepieces. As well as being bought to wear, watches are still being acquired with bequests to future generations in mind, with those buyers focussing on leading watch names like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Cartier that have enduring appeal and surpass fleeting fads and market trends.
As with many areas of the auction world, buyers look for watches that are a little unusual with added complications, are rare or limited-edition models, or that have a story behind them.
Watch specialist Adam Wasdell picks his top lots from 2025:
Patek Philippe: A Good 18 Carat Gold Wristwatch, signed Patek Philippe, Geneve, model: Calatrava, 1950s
One of my favourites of Patek Philippe’s vintage classic watches is the Calatrava. The Calatrava was introduced in 1932 and is the brand’s dress watch range. This particular watch was a great example from the 1950s and had a lovely dial design, good quality movement and stand out downturned case lugs.
Sold for £4,200 plus buyer’s premium
Patek Philippe: A Good 18 Carat Gold Wristwatch with the Iraq National Emblem, signed Patek Philippe, Geneve, model: Ellipse, ref: 3730, 1970s
This model has an unusual dial with the Iraq national emblem, and such watches were made and presented to individuals to show appreciation and recognition of services rendered. After years of research, watches with added interesting logos are rarer than first thought and collectors love to acquire them. This example was in great condition, and the original boxes also have the Iraq national emblem stamped on them.
Sold for £10,500 plus buyer’s premium
Rolex: A Fine 18 Carat Gold Automatic Day/Date Centre Seconds Wristwatch with the Rare Saudi National Aviation Services Symbol Dial, signed Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, model: Day/Date, ref: 18038/18000, 1985
A further nice example of a presentation watch is this Rolex Day/Date example, which had the unusual Saudi National Aviation Services symbol dial (SNAS). This had been in the same family from new and had the original paperwork, which is very rare to find.
Sold for £10,000 plus buyer’s premium
Patek Philippe: A Fine and Rare 18 Carat Rose Gold Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date, Leap Year Indication and Moon Phases Display Wristwatch, signed Patek Philippe, Geneve, model: Perpetual Calendar, ref: 5059R, circa 2000
Patek Philippe is well known for high quality complicated watches. This example had everything a watch collector looks for in a complicated watch. The case was a popular 18 carat rose gold, and it had a perpetual retrograde movement. Another very popular feature for collectors is the moon phases display to the dial.
Sold for £18,000 plus buyer’s premium
Rolex: A Very Rare Stainless Steel Automatic Chronograph 'Patrizzi' Dial Wristwatch, signed Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified, model: Cosmograph Daytona, ref: 16520/16500, 1996
One of my favourite Rolex models is the Daytona. This one was very special as it had a very unusual dial, and the model is known by watch collectors as the Patrizzi Rolex Daytona. It is named after specialist watch auctioneer Osvaldo Patrizzi, who, after years of research, discovered that the finish Rolex used for the sub dial chapter rights made the colour fade to a nice shade of toffee over the years, as is visible in this example. These watches are rare to find with the original dial, and it had the added bonus of having all the original boxes and guarantee paperwork.
Sold for £25,000 plus buyer’s premium
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