All gemstones have their own appeal, but there is something fascinating about emeralds. Long steeped in folklore, their appeal is not a modern phenomenon; to ancient Egyptians, emeralds symbolised eternal youth and re-birth and they often buried emeralds with their loved ones to assist them through the afterlife. Indeed, it is believed that Cleopatra was a fan of the enchanting green stone. In later times, emerald became the birthstone for May and was believed to have beneficial properties for the wearer, such as the ability to improve memory, protect from giddiness if worn in a ring, and protect from mishap at sea if worn around the neck – a very versatile jewel!
A Pair of Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Drop Earrings, circa 1930 (sold for £35,000)
Emeralds can vary enormously in colour and quality and are found in all shades of green from an almost pastel mint hue through to a deep green verging on black. Being a brittle stone and quite soft, some emeralds are treated to improve their durability. Treatment with an oil or a polymer resin helps to fill any surface-reaching fissures that are fairly common in these stones. Stabilizing treatments are generally accepted practice with emeralds, although it is possible that they may also improve the apparent colour and clarity of a stone. It is important to look after and clean emeralds appropriately, as their delicate nature and any treatments they might have require special care.
An Early 20th Century Colombian Emerald and Diamond Brooch (sold for £19,000)
The most prized emeralds come from Colombia, a source that was first discovered in the 1560s. Legend has it that one particular vein was discovered by Spanish conquistadors after an emerald fragment was found lodged in the hoof of a cavalier’s horse; after retracing their steps, they narrowed down the search area and found the source. Emerald mines in Muzo and Chivor are situated within inhospitable jungle-like terrain, extraction has always been a challenging operation, made more technically complicated by the fragile nature of emerald. However, it is well worth the effort, as these mines produced some of the most exceptional quality emerald with a stunning deep green hue.
Many famous jewels incorporate emerald, and visitors to the remarkable 2025 Cartier exhibition at the V&A in London could not fail to be impressed by the shoulder clip brooch on loan from the collection of the Hillwood Estate, Museum and Gardens. Dating from 1923, it was and subsequently purchased by Marjorie Merriweather Post, an American heiress, businesswoman, socialite, and philanthropist, who had it altered from its original pendant form in 1928. The piece features about 250 carats of carved Mughal emeralds, which were originally from Colombia but carved in India 100-200 years prior to the making of this ornament.
An Emerald and Diamond Cluster Ring (estimate: £2,000-3,000)
The Fine Jewellery, Watches and Silver Sale on 15th November includes numerous emerald-set pieces; first valued at one of Tennants’ regular valuation days at the Bar Convent in York and subsequently consigned at the Harrogate office is a mid-20th century Emerald and Diamond Cluster Ring (estimate: £2,000-3,000 all figures exclude buyer’s premium). A sizeable cushion cut emerald centres a border of round brilliant cut diamonds, with yellow claws on the emerald, and white on the diamonds to accentuate the stones.
An Emerald and Diamond Cluster Ring (estimate: £1,000-1,500)
Another elegant piece is an Emerald and Diamond Cluster Ring, with a stylish early 20th century mount, a step cut emerald surrounded by diamonds and white claws, with a detailed shoulder (estimate: £1,000-1,500).
An 18 Carat White Gold Emerald and Diamond Cluster Ring (estimate: £7,000-10,000)
One of the few emeralds in the sale to be accompanied by a gemmological report is an 18 Carat White Gold Emerald and Diamond Cluster Ring (estimate: £7,000-10,000). The report was prepared by The Gem and Pearl Laboratory in London, who have suggested that the large approximately 11.13 carat stone originated in Zambia, and describe the emerald as having minor clarity enhancement.
An Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Brooch (estimate: £2,000-3,000)
A stunning Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Brooch is offered with an estimate of £2,000-3,000. The emeralds in this brooch could be Colombian; however, this has not been confirmed by a lab report. The total estimated diamond content in this piece is in the region of 3.75 carat and it could well exceed its pre-sale estimate.
A Mid-20th Century Emerald and Diamond Cluster Ring (estimate: £500-700)
Also of interest is a stylish Mid-20th Century Emerald and Diamond Cluster Cocktail Ring, which has a rich mid-green emerald amidst an undulating border of round brilliant cut and marquise cut diamonds (estimate: £500-700). This is the type of jewellery that stands out and is definitely a talking point at parties!
A French Belle Epoque Emerald and Diamond Cluster Ring (estimate: £1,000-1,500)
If you’re looking for an Art Deco example, then the French Belle Epoque Emerald and Diamond Cluster Ring could be the one (estimate: £1,000-1,500). This has an emerald cut emerald within a rubbed over setting, in a pierced plaque outer frame set with diamonds.
An Emerald, Opal, Ruby and Diamond Butterfly Brooch (estimate: £5,000-7,000)
The final emerald-set piece to mention is a most impressive Emerald, Opal, Ruby and Diamond Butterfly Brooch (estimate: £5,000-7,000). This brooch is a substantial piece of great quality, dating to around 1900. Created to move en tremblant, the butterfly quivers and shivers as the wearer moves, dazzling the viewers with beautifully matched lively green emeralds, diamonds, and vari-hued opals.
Alongside these standout emerald pieces are over 130 further lots of jewellery, including many more emeralds. The sale will be on public view from Sunday 9th November and you can sign up to be reminded when the sale catalogue goes live online HERE.
