Preview: Fashion, Costume & Textiles 23rd May

A rather fascinating and enigmatic Memento Mori or ‘reminder of death’ is coming under the hammer in Tennants Auctioneers’ Fashion, Costume and Textiles Sale on 23^rd May, offered with an estimate of £300-500 (all figures exclude buyer’s premium). Unusually, it has been worked in needlepoint, a medium that we normally see used for light, decorative scenes rich with flowers and animals. Whilst rather faded, this 18th Century needlework has a skull, a vase with a wilted flower, and a recently blown out candle trailing a wisp of smoke. Below, written in Latin, is the phrase “My days have faded away like smoke” which is taken from Psalm 102 verse 3. It is a lament attributed to David that deals with sorrow, humility and faith, and is often read during lent and at funerals. Memento Mori, reminders of death and the fleeting nature of life, have their roots in Classical philosophy, and begin to crop up in the arts from the medieval period onwards.

Classic Louis Vuitton luggage is a perennial favourite at auction, and this sale will include three graduated Louis Vuitton Monogram Leather Hard Suitcases dating from the late 20^th century. The largest suitcase is offered with an estimate of £800-1,200, and the smaller examples are £700-1,000 each. From a century earlier is a Late 19^th Century Louis Vuitton Large Case, which comes with provenance from the Earls of Lonsdale (estimate: £1,000-1,500). The case is embellished with the red, white and yellow stripped livery and cypher for the Earl of Lonsdale, and has a fitted leather interior with bespoke accessories such as a manicure set, tot cups and a card case. Also with provenance from the Earls of Lonsdale are a Large Tan Leather Dressing Case by Joseph Last of London (estimate: £300-500), a Tan Leather Gladstone Bag by JT Needs of New Bond Street (estimate: £200-300), and from another vendor a First Footman Livery Uniform to the 5^th Earl of Lonsdale, the so-called ‘Yellow Earl’, complete with distinctive yellow velvet breeches (estimate: £300-500).

An interesting selection of antique furnishing textiles include Two 19^th Century French Printed Cotton Quilted Panels depicting exotic flowers (estimate: £200-300), a Pair of Late 19^th Century Arts and Crafts Style ‘Heraldic’ Stencilled Wall Hangings depicting St George and sold with provenance from the Hugenot Bosanquet family (estimate: £500-600), and an Unusual 19^th Century Decorative Cream Silk Bed Cover/Panel (estimate: £300-500).

A large offering of vintage costume includes a good private collection of vibrant and stylish 1960s and 1970s ladies wear from England and America, a selection of 1970s to 1990s Biba pieces, and an Ossie Clark Purple and Bronze Dress (estimate: £200-300). From further afield are an Early 19^th Century Persian Robe (estimate: £600-800), and a good number of 19^th century Chinese Robes including a purple silk example to be sold with an estimate of £800-1,200. The sale will also feature a large collection of over 60 lots of antique, French, Central Asian, African and English Textiles and Costume, such as an Early 20^th Century Indian Silk Embroidered Panel (estimate: £200-300).

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