One of the joys of the Jewellery sales at Tennants is the great diversity of lots on offer. Sitting alongside high-value lots and those made by prestigious brands are a host of delightful little surprises - jewels that make you smile and rare or usual objects. These can often be offered with more modest estimates, although the fascination with such items can lead to extremely competitive bidding. The Fine Jewellery, Watches and Silver Sale on 14th March has many such an item going under the hammer.
A Regard Locket, circa 1880 (estimate: £300-500 plus buyer’s premium)
Sentimental jewellery reigned supreme in the Victorian period, with items representing love, devotion, and other sentiments expressed using styling, form and materials. A wonderful example in the sale is a circular Regard Locket, made circa 1880 (estimate: £300-500 all figures exclude buyer’s premium). Circles or hoops speak of eternity or devotion, the stylised rose is the flower of love, and to cement the message, spelt out with Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby and Diamond stones is ‘REGARD’, a very romantic notion for the Victorian age. The piece is completed with a locket at the reverse in which to put a lock of hair or a portrait of the beloved one.
A Ruby and Split Pearl Pendant on Chain (estimate: £300-500 plus buyer’s premium)
Following on is a Ruby and Split Pearl Pendant on Chain in the form of a quiver and arrows; by association with Cupid it is a marginally more discreet message of love, but one that still speaks volumes as to romance and devotion (estimate: £300-500). The quiver is exquisitely made and opens to reveal four dressmaking pins to make it both fashionable and functional.
A Fancy Link Bracelet, circa 1850 (estimate: £300-500 plus buyer’s premium)
Fastening with a clasp modelled as a hand is a circa 1850 Fancy Link Bracelet (estimate: £300-500). Used since antiquity, the hand again symbolises love, but also friendship, partnership, and femininity, and thus this piece could be gifted to symbolise an array of alternative messages.
A Mid-19th Century Moonstone and Diamond Brooch (estimate: £300-500 plus buyer’s premium)
In the Language of Flowers each species has its own meaning, but a more generic flower symbolises balance, harmony and natural beauty, alongside growth and strength. A beautiful betrothal gift perhaps, a Mid-19th Century Moonstone and Diamond Brooch sets a clear intention for a future together (estimate: £300-500). Moonstone has long been considered a stone of love, good fortune, and it is sometimes used to represent new beginnings, so is an ideal inclusion in this brooch.
A Pearl, Diamond and Ruby Brooch, circa 1860 (estimate: £200-400 plus buyer’s premium)
Intriguing and sometimes macabre animal and insect motifs in Victorian jewellery are familiar to fans of the era, which were often used to inject humour or to shock - jewelled spiders, flies and salamanders are amusing, but not rare. Crabs, on the other hand, are not prolific in the antique jewellery market. A circa 1860 Pearl, Diamond and Ruby Brooch in the form of a crab is set with a baroque pearl to the body, diamonds to the legs and pincers, and ruby eyes (estimate: £200-400). Despite his slightly angry appearance, he is most entertaining. Maybe intended to represent the sign of the zodiac, a tough-shelled crab could also represent strength, resilience, protection or in an even quirkier way a lover of the sea.
A ‘Key to My Heart’ Bangle, circa 1930 (estimate: £400-600 plus buyer’s premium)
A lot which brings huge joy is a circa 1930 ‘Key to My Heart’ Bangle (estimate: £400-600). Heart padlocks are not uncommon in jewellery, but this example has a miniature key suspended in the form of a feathered arrow, to really accentuate the message of love. This key fits perfectly into the keyhole in the middle of the heart to open the bangle. The lock is stunningly engineered, symbolises the unlocking of love or the “key to my heart” message.
An Emerald, Sapphire and Diamond Novelty Brooch (estimate: £1,000-1,500 plus buyer’s premium)
The jewellery sale concludes with an intriguing lot, an Emerald, Sapphire and Diamond Novelty Brooch (estimate: £1,000-1,500). It has a curious form, which is believed by the vendor to depict a stylised mushroom, however, other theories on the shape include a jelly on a plate, or bonbons on a dish! Open to interpretation, this piece has been created with care from the initial design through to the finished brooch, and this quality gem must have meant much to the original recipient.
