This year sees a long-awaited exhibition of Cartier jewellery and objects at the V&A in London. Whilst never far from the forefront when it comes to jewellery over the past 100 years, this prestigious exhibition has generated a renewed focus on the extraordinary design and craftsmanship of the House of Cartier.
Cartier was founded in 1847 in Paris by jeweller Louis-Francois Cartier, who passed the burgeoning business to his son, Alfred, in 1874. However, it was only after Louis-Francois’ three grandsons, Pierre, Louis and Jacques, took over the reins in 1899 that it became and international sensation. Branches would open in London, New York, and St Petersburg, and they were soon jewellers and watchmakers to royalty around the globe. Having dominated the fine jewellery market in the Art Deco era, Cartier was a global leader in luxury jewellery and accessories throughout the 20th century, a position it continues today.
Very Light Pink Diamond Necklace
In a serendipitous fashion, we have had several excellent Cartier items star in our auctions so far this year, including a magnificent Very Light Pink Diamond Necklace of 8.62 carat, which sold for £190,000 (all figures exclude buyer’s premium) in the Fine Jewellery, Watches & Silver Sale on 15th March. Other lots in that sale that sold with more modest hammer prices included an 18 Carat Gold Automatic “Tank” Americaine Wristwatch (sold for £4,800), a Diamond Panthère Pin, set with approximately 0.50 carat of diamonds and a timeless design which remains very popular (sold for £3,500).
Star Sapphire, Amethyst and Diamond Brooch
The trend continues with our 12th July Fine Jewellery, Watches and Silver Sale, which is set to include twelve lots of Cartier across all three disciplines. In the Jewellery section, with good provenance is a Star Sapphire, Amethyst and Diamond Brooch, modelled as a floral spray (estimate: £2,000-3,000). Star sapphires are enigmatic and alluring and the blue-grey tone of the cabochons in this piece of jewellery contrasts superbly with the vibrant purple amethysts.
Onyx and Diamond Tank Ring
Cartier’s “Tank” collection is inspired by the outline of a military tank, as seen from above. Whilst we often see “Tank” watches, jewellery incorporating the design is less common, but a good example in the sale is an Onyx and Diamond Tank Ring, with diamonds inset to the shoulders (estimate: £2,500-3,000).
Amethyst and Diamond Brooch
A Diamond Set 'Love' Ring (estimate: £700-1,000) illustrates their distinctive screw head design, which symbolises a “locked-in” love, a forever love if you will. Rich green stones bring colour in an 18 Carat Gold Emerald and Diamond Eternity Ring, creating a classic, simple and wearable design (estimate: £500-700). Finally, there is the Amethyst and Diamond Brooch (estimate: £2,000-3,000), which is a superb example of Cartier craftsmanship. The amethysts are excellently matched, with diamond accents centrally and to give shape to the petal forms. Diamond set tubular anthers give this design a level of finesse and refinement that is rarely surpassed. The structure of the brooch is arguably as beautiful when viewed from the reverse as from the front, a sign of true quality.
18 Carat Gold Tank Ombus
Six Cartier watches will also be on offer in the sale, including an 18 Carat Gold Panthere (estimate: £4,000-5,000), and a Stainless Steel Diamond Set Santos XL (estimate: £5,000-7,000), an 18 Carat Gold Tonneau (estimate £5,000-7,000). A rare 1930s 18 Carat Gold Tank Ombus is also on offer, with an estimate of £5,000-7,000.
Fine Lady’s 18 Carat White Gold Diamond Set Tank Francaise
The lady’s watches include a Fine Lady’s 18 Carat White Gold Diamond Set Tank Francaise with unusual monogrammed Cartier boutique dial (estimate: £7,000-9,000), and a Stainless Steel Panthere Ruban (estimate: £800-1,200).
Diamond Set Gold and Enamel Minaudiere
Finally, a Diamond Set Gold and Enamel Minaudiere, made in the first quarter of the 20th century is offered with an estimate of £4,000-6,000. Comprising a writing surface, a mirror, a storage compartment and a lipstick holder, it is engraved ‘Mary, with all my Love Freddie’.
View Fine Jewellery, Watches & Silver Sale
