For collectors, watches don’t just tell the time, they hold an endless fascination. Technical innovation, unusual complications, rarity, iconic design or historical significance all play a part in attracting collectors to the most sought-after models. Often it is only minor variations between references that make all the difference when it comes to a watch’s desirability. Here, I have chosen three of the top lots coming up in the Fine Jewellery, Watches and Silver Sale on 12th July to look at in closer detail.
A Fine and Rare 14 Carat Rose Gold Triple Calendar Moonphase Wristwatch, signed Omega, model: Museum Cosmic, ref: 3944, circa 1951
Estimate: £8,000 – 12,000 plus buyer’s premium
In 1951 Omega introduced the first watch in their Cosmic line, ref. 3944, which housed the Omega calibre 381 movement. Reference 3944 is not only the first Cosmic Omega made, but it’s also the most highly desired by watch collectors. It is thought that reference 3944 was produced in 14k yellow gold for the American market and 18k yellow gold for the European markets; rose gold variants, as in the present example, is the rarest of all.
A Very Rare Stainless Steel Automatic Chronograph 'Patrizzi' Dial Wristwatch, signed Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified, model: Cosmograph Daytona, ref: 16520/16500, 1996
Estimate: £25,000 – 30,000 plus buyer’s premium
Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona reference 16520/16500 is known by collectors as the 'Patrizzi', and has the fine quality calibre 4030 Zenith el Primero movement, modified by Rolex. The watch was dubbed the ‘Patrizzi’ Daytona after specialist watch auctioneer Osvaldo Patrizzi, who, after years of research, discovered that the finish that Rolex used for the sub dial chapter rings was what was responsible for making the colour fade to a desirable toffee-coloured shade over the years as in the present example. These watches are rare to find with both the original dial and all the original boxes and guarantee paperwork.
A Rare Stainless Steel Automatic Calendar Centre Seconds Diver's Wristwatch, signed Omega, Professional 600m/2000ft, model: Seamaster 600 PloProf, ref: 166.077, circa 1975
Estimate: £3,000 – 5,000 plus buyer’s premium
This Omega Seamaster 600 reference 166.077 is known as the "Ploprof", short for Plongeur Professionnel, or professional diver. It was introduced to the market in 1970 and designed in collaboration with the legendary diver Jacques Cousteau and COMEX and was specifically engineered for professional divers.
