News & Insights

Period & Modern Jewellery Preview

22nd April 2021.

A dazzling pair of Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Cluster Earrings are amongst an array of period and modern jewellery coming up for auction in the Jewellery, Watches and Silver Sale on 22nd May. On offer with an estimate of £6,000-8,000 (plus buyer’s premium), the earrings are sold accompanied with an Emerald Report from The Gem and Pearl Laboratory, stating the emeralds are natural and likely originate from Colombia.

Art Deco jewellery, with its geometric designs and clean lines, is always popular at auction and another highlight of the era is a Diamond Bracelet that is to be sold with an estimate of £1,500-2,000. Made circa 1925, the bracelet comprises thirteen graduated old cut diamonds in square white-metal settings. From a generation earlier comes an Edwardian Diamond Necklace or Tiara, which was made circa 1900 (estimate: £3,000-5,000). The piece is decorated with floral scrolling decoration set throughout with old cut diamonds.

One of the most unusual pieces of jewellery in the sale is a Late 19th Century Opal Matrix Stickpin, probably carved by Wilhelm Schmidt (estimate: £1,700-2,000). The pin is crowned by a head of a warrior, wearing a peacock headdress. Wilhelm Schmidt (1845-1938) was born in Idar Oberstein, Germany, the European centre of the mineral, gemstone and lapidary trade. At the age of fifteen he was sent to Paris as an apprentice and was taken under the wing of cameo cutter Arsène, who trained him in the Neo-Classical tradition. In the late 1860s Schmidt moved to London, where he established a gem-carving business in Hatton Garden with his brother supplying intaglios and cameos for many important jewellers including John Brogden, Guiliano, Child & Child, and Tiffany & Co. Schmidt never signed his work and pieces he produced for shops were never credited to him.

A good selection of modern jewellery in the sale includes two good sized and deep coloured Tanzanite rings, one oval shaped tanzanite flanked by four round brilliant cut diamonds (estimate: £2,500-3,000) and the second a pear-shaped tanzanite with eight-cut diamond set shoulders (estimate: £1,000-1,500). Also of note is an Aquamarine and Diamond Cluster Pendant on Chain with an unusual shaped fancy cut large aquamarine to the centre (estimate: £1,500-2,000).

Entries of Fine Jewellery are now invited for the Summer sale. Please contact the department for further details.

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