No antique jewellery collection is complete without a crescent brooch. Prolific during the latter part of the 19th century, crescents in every length, breadth and width of curve were created, to feed the demand for this very fashionable motif.
Crescent brooches generally feature a single or double row of gemstones. Whilst sometimes set with diamonds, a wide and varied selection of coloured gemstones can be found in Victorian examples, from ruby to opal, amethyst to moonstone.
Crescents symbolise transformative periods, echoing the waxing and the waning of the moon. As such, a crescent brooch was seen as a fitting gift upon marriage, or for a significant birthday. Some also associated the crescent moon with very feminine motifs of beauty, grace and nurturing, or mothering qualities. Thus, befitting for a betrothal, or to commemorate the birth of a child.
More rarely seen at auction, however, is a crescent brooch with a flower within its curve. This style is known as a honeymoon brooch and was worn by many Victorian brides. The moon was a popular token of affection, signifying devotion and enduring love.
A Diamond Brooch – Sold for £550 plus buyer’s premium
Included in the forthcoming Fine Jewellery, Watches and Silver Sale on 14th November are two crescent brooches.
A Late Victorian Diamond Crescent Brooch – Estimate: £3,000-5,000 plus buyer’s premium
The first is a Late Victorian Diamond Crescent Brooch of a more compact, or circular, crescent (estimate: £3,000-5,000 plus buyer’s premium). It is set with old cut diamonds that graduate in size to the largest diamond set mid-way. The setting is silver fronted, as was very common in the late 19th century, so the white stones are in white claw settings, to avoid any draw of colour that yellow claws can create. The back of the mount is gold. In total there is estimated to be just short of 6 carat of diamond weight, a substantial amount.
A Sapphire and Diamond Crescent Brooch – Estimate: £500-700 plus buyer’s premium
More curious, perhaps, is a Sapphire and Diamond Crescent Brooch, made circa 1880, which has a gently curving crescent (estimate: £500-700 plus buyer’s premium). A row of graduated round sapphires sits around an inner row of rose cut diamonds, again, in white (silver) claw settings on a gold frame. The fascinating feature of this crescent is the fact that as well as graduating in size, the sapphires also graduate in colour tone, from a very pale cornflower blue to an almost indigo shade, then on to violet tones. Additionally, some of the sapphires display colour change, an unusual phenomenon. This sees the stones varying in hue according to the type of light under which they are viewed - daylight or incandescent. This effect usually occurs due to trace elements within the crystal structure, like vanadium, or chromium. An interesting and thoughtfully curated selection of sapphires.
